<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8" standalone="yes"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"><channel><title>Ayodhya on NoBakwas.com</title><link>https://nobakwas.com/tags/ayodhya/</link><description>Recent content in Ayodhya on NoBakwas.com</description><image><title>NoBakwas.com</title><url>https://nobakwas.com/images/cover.png</url><link>https://nobakwas.com/images/cover.png</link></image><generator>Hugo -- 0.156.0</generator><language>en-us</language><lastBuildDate>Fri, 17 Apr 2026 10:00:00 +0530</lastBuildDate><atom:link href="https://nobakwas.com/tags/ayodhya/index.xml" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml"/><item><title>What the Saryu Remembers</title><link>https://nobakwas.com/posts/experiences/what-the-saryu-remembers/</link><pubDate>Fri, 17 Apr 2026 10:00:00 +0530</pubDate><guid>https://nobakwas.com/posts/experiences/what-the-saryu-remembers/</guid><description>For thirty years, an old man in Faizabad cycled through the city at dawn with a white cloth on his bicycle. He gave last rites to over 5,500 abandoned strangers. One morning, a young journalist came to write his story — and found something she had been looking for without knowing it.</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The white cloth was the first thing Priya noticed.</p>
<p>She had been waiting outside the chai stall near Faizabad Chowk since 5:30 in the morning — the old Ghanta Ghar clock visible down the lane, the sky still undecided about the day — when the old man came cycling around the corner. Thin, white-kurta, white topi, moving at the steady unhurried pace of someone who has been going to the same place for thirty years.</p>
<p>The cloth was folded on the carrier behind him. White cotton, clean, pressed. She had been told to look for it.</p>
<p>&ldquo;Raheem Chacha?&rdquo; she called.</p>
<p>He stopped. Looked at her with eyes that were quiet and entirely present — the kind of eyes that made you want to say something true.</p>
<p>&ldquo;You are the journalist,&rdquo; he said. Not a question.</p>
<p>&ldquo;From Lucknow. <em>Janpath Samachar.</em>&rdquo; She held up her press card. &ldquo;You agreed to talk to me.&rdquo;</p>
<p>&ldquo;I agreed to let you come,&rdquo; he said. There was a difference in his voice, gentle but clear. &ldquo;Talking we will see.&rdquo; He tilted his head toward the chai stall. &ldquo;First tea.&rdquo;</p>
<hr>
<p>They sat on the wooden bench outside, two clay cups between them, and Priya opened her notebook. The Chowk around them was waking up — a vegetable vendor arranging bright tomatoes in a pyramid, the smell of earth and wet coriander, a cycle rickshaw rattling over the uneven road. A sweeper moved methodically through the lane with a jhaadu, raising small clouds of dust that the morning light turned gold.</p>
<p>&ldquo;How many?&rdquo; she asked.</p>
<p>Raheem Chacha looked at his chai. &ldquo;I stopped counting after five thousand.&rdquo;</p>
<p>&ldquo;Five thousand—&rdquo;</p>
<p>&ldquo;Five thousand, five hundred and something.&rdquo; He said it the way you say a number that stopped being abstract a long time ago. &ldquo;I have a register. My son-in-law keeps it now. My eyes are not good for writing.&rdquo;</p>
<p>She wrote it down. Then she looked up. &ldquo;Why?&rdquo;</p>
<p>He was quiet for a moment, turning the clay cup in his hands.</p>
<p>&ldquo;Because of Altaf,&rdquo; he said.</p>
<hr>
<p><img alt="Raheem Chacha and Priya at the chai stall near Faizabad Chowk — morning, clay cups, notebook open" loading="lazy" src="/images/experiences/what-the-saryu-remembers/chai_stall_conversation.png">
<em>The chai stall near Ghanta Ghar — where every conversation begins in Faizabad</em></p>
<hr>
<p>Altaf was twenty-two when he died.</p>
<p>It was 1993 — the city was sick with something that had no name and every name. Altaf had gone to the market at Fatehganj to buy rice and dal. He did not come back. Raheem Chacha found him the next morning near the road two lanes from Gulab Bari, the rose garden of the Nawabs, where the white marble of the old tomb gleamed in the early light like something indifferent to human grief.</p>
<p>He had not been brought to a hospital. He had not been identified. He had simply been left.</p>
<p>&ldquo;There were others,&rdquo; Raheem Chacha said. &ldquo;Around him. Three or four. Nobody&rsquo;s people. Nobody had claimed them. The municipality came eventually. But by then—&rdquo; He stopped. Set down the chai cup. &ldquo;By then the dogs had been.&rdquo;</p>
<p>Priya stopped writing. She looked at him.</p>
<p>&ldquo;I went to the administration office. I asked: who is responsible for this? They looked at me like I was asking who is responsible for the rain.&rdquo; He smiled slightly — the smile of a man who has long made peace with bureaucracy. &ldquo;So I understood. I am responsible for this.&rdquo;</p>
<p>He picked up his cycle. The white cloth on the carrier.</p>
<p>&ldquo;That is the kafan,&rdquo; he said. &ldquo;Shroud. I carry it always. In case.&rdquo;</p>
<hr>
<p><img alt="The flashback — 1993, Raheem Chacha kneeling beside his son Altaf near Gulab Bari, Faizabad, dawn" loading="lazy" src="/images/experiences/what-the-saryu-remembers/the_son_flashback.png">
<em>1993, near Gulab Bari — the morning that made him who he became</em></p>
<hr>
<p>For thirty years, Raheem Chacha had woken before the azaan.</p>
<p>His route was the same, adjusted only by season — from Rikabganj, where he had lived all his life in the house his father built, out through the Chowk, down toward the Saryu. He knew which lanes held which kinds of sorrow. He knew the railway station side — where the ones who had traveled too far from home sometimes stopped forever. He knew the old lanes near Niyawan Chowk. He knew Jhunki Ghat, the quiet one, the one the pilgrims skipped in favour of more famous ghats upstream.</p>
<p>That was where they were found, sometimes. At Jhunki Ghat. The ones nobody was looking for.</p>
<p>He worked with a Pandit from the neighbourhood — Suresh ji, who had been doing this with him for eleven years, a small man with a quiet voice who chanted the mantras with complete attention regardless of whether it was a Hindu or Muslim body, regardless of whether anyone was watching.</p>
<p>&ldquo;Suresh ji says God doesn&rsquo;t check the paperwork,&rdquo; Raheem Chacha said.</p>
<p>A pause.</p>
<p>&ldquo;I told him: if He does, I&rsquo;ll deal with Him.&rdquo;</p>
<p>Priya laughed before she meant to.</p>
<hr>
<p><img alt="Raheem Chacha and Pandit Suresh ji at Jhunki Ghat — last rites at the Saryu river, mist on the water, a diya floating past" loading="lazy" src="/images/experiences/what-the-saryu-remembers/last_rites_jhunki_ghat.png">
<em>Jhunki Ghat, Saryu river — two men, no audience, complete dignity</em></p>
<hr>
<p>The Saryu was something else at this hour.</p>
<p>Mist lay on the water, long and low, and through it the early light came sideways, turning the river the colour of old brass. A boatman was setting up near the ghat steps. From somewhere upstream, faint bells. The smell of incense, water, something clean.</p>
<p>Raheem Chacha stopped at the top of the ghat steps and looked at the river for a long moment.</p>
<p>&ldquo;Altaf liked to come here,&rdquo; he said. &ldquo;Early morning, like this. He said the Saryu doesn&rsquo;t care who you are. It just moves.&rdquo;</p>
<p>Priya stood beside him. A diya — someone&rsquo;s morning prayer — came floating slowly past, its flame barely alive but surviving.</p>
<p>&ldquo;Do you remember all of them?&rdquo; she asked.</p>
<p>He was quiet.</p>
<p>&ldquo;Not their faces,&rdquo; he said. &ldquo;I remember the days. I remember the weather. I remember if it rained. I remember if the Saryu was high or low.&rdquo; He looked at the water. &ldquo;The river remembers. I trust the river.&rdquo;</p>
<hr>
<p>She almost missed it.</p>
<p>Going through her notes that evening, she found a page that had slipped from Raheem Chacha&rsquo;s register — a photocopy, old and faded. Entries from 2001. Against each: a small note. <em>Male, elderly, near railway station. Hindu rites. Suresh ji.</em></p>
<p>The fourth entry. <em>Male, approximately 65, Ghanta Ghar lane. Had a letter in pocket — partial address, Lucknow. Could not trace. Hindu rites. Guptar Ghat.</em></p>
<p>A letter. Partial address. Lucknow.</p>
<p>Her mother had told her, once, about her grandfather. How he had gone to Faizabad in 2001 for a court case. How he had not come back. How they had searched. How her grandmother had, eventually, simply stopped asking.</p>
<p>Her grandfather&rsquo;s name was Ramesh Prasad Shukla. He had lived in Lucknow. He would have been sixty-four in 2001.</p>
<p>She sat very still in the hotel room.</p>
<p>Outside, the Saryu moved through the dark in its old way.</p>
<hr>
<p>She went back to Rikabganj the next morning.</p>
<p>Raheem Chacha was in his small courtyard, reading a newspaper at arm&rsquo;s length. He looked up when she came through the gate. He saw her face. He set the newspaper down.</p>
<p>&ldquo;You found something,&rdquo; he said.</p>
<p>She told him everything. He listened without interrupting. When she finished, he got up slowly — the careful movement of a man whose knees have thirty years of early mornings in them — and went inside. He came back with a small steel box. Inside: a folded piece of paper. Old, slightly water-stained.</p>
<p>A letter. Half an address. Lucknow.</p>
<p>He had kept it. All these years. In case someone came.</p>
<p>&ldquo;I always thought someone would come,&rdquo; he said.</p>
<p>Priya took the letter with both hands.</p>
<p>&ldquo;He was given proper rites,&rdquo; Raheem Chacha said. &ldquo;At Guptar Ghat. Suresh ji was there. He was not alone.&rdquo;</p>
<p>She looked up at him. The morning light in the courtyard was very clear.</p>
<p>&ldquo;Thank you,&rdquo; she said.</p>
<p>He waved his hand gently, the way very old people wave away gratitude they don&rsquo;t need.</p>
<p>&ldquo;He is with the river,&rdquo; he said. &ldquo;The Saryu remembers.&rdquo;</p>
<hr>
<p><img alt="Raheem Chacha handing the old letter to Priya in his Rikabganj courtyard — the white bicycle with its white cloth against the wall behind him" loading="lazy" src="/images/experiences/what-the-saryu-remembers/letter_found.png">
<em>Rikabganj, morning — twenty-five years of waiting, resolved in one gesture</em></p>
<hr>
<p>The story ran on a Sunday, three weeks later. It filled the front page of the weekend edition and was picked up by six other papers within forty-eight hours. Letters came to the Faizabad district office — from Lucknow, Delhi, a woman in Surat who said her brother had gone missing in Faizabad in 1998 and could someone check the register.</p>
<p>Raheem Chacha read about none of this. He does not take the papers on weekdays.</p>
<p>He is usually on the road by then.</p>
<p>The Ghanta Ghar clock reads five-thirty. The Saryu is high this season, moving fast and clean. The mist is still on Jhunki Ghat&rsquo;s quiet steps. And on the lane from Rikabganj, an old man on a black bicycle turns the corner, a white cloth folded on the carrier behind him, going about the most human errand in the world.</p>
<hr>
<p><img alt="Raheem Chacha cycling at dawn through Faizabad — the white cloth on his bicycle, the old city waking around him" loading="lazy" src="/images/experiences/what-the-saryu-remembers/dawn_cycling.png">
<em>Every morning. Thirty years. The same road, the same errand, the same quiet purpose.</em></p>
<hr>
<p><em>This is a work of fiction. All characters, names, incidents, and dialogues are products of the author&rsquo;s imagination. The story is inspired by real acts of human compassion reported in public news. Any resemblance to actual persons, living or dead, or actual events is purely coincidental and unintentional. This story is not intended to represent or report on any specific real individual or event.</em></p>
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